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Updated : 30/09/2018


Recent Review

"Allan a great big Thank You for replacing the Elektroblock on my Hymer Classic today. Fantastic service, very friendly and very professional. Best regards J. W."

                                                         Schaudt Elektroblock

We are Schaudt recognised distributors able to repair or supply the Schaudt Elektroblock range, all models from the EBL 20 through and beyond the famous EBL 99 which is fitted in more Motorhomes Worldwide than any other Charger/Power Unit. We supply remanufactured units from £250 and typically repair Elektroblock EBL xx units at £130 (no VAT) but plus shipping, so £148 total. 

Apuljack recently billed a customer £166 + £7.50 shipping + £34.70 VAT = £208.20 for a repair.

Apart from the paragraph above explaining what we do, that is all the advertising you will see on most of the information pages. 

Schaudt units are well made and one of our favourite chargers to repair because of the quality of the base product.  Support from the factory is excellent.

Contrary to the information on the Web Forums they do have built in Spike/Surge protection. Exactly the same electronic protection as used by almost all the Chargers we repair from Arsilicii to Nordelettronica. So, contrary to what you may read on the Forums, they do NOT have a problem with mains voltage spikes.  

Almost all of the problems we see with Schaudt Elektroblock EBL charger failures are down to the use of Batteries past their best. 

The key to prolonging the life of any Motorhome/Caravan charger is replacing the battery before it is past it, as batteries are used they deteriorate, even the very best batteries lose a little bit of capacity each time they are charged/discharged. 

As they are used they place an increasing load on the charger. Some budget batteries at 1 year old can be placing a bigger load on the charging systems (both the Alternator and Mains 230v charger) than the best battery does at 3 years old. See here for more info

Recent testing has shown that the Schaudt charger can have it's reliablity improved by the addition of a Schaudt OVP 01, but not to protect it from Mains Spikes which the OVP 01 has been shown to be slow to catch, but protection against rapid repeat interruptions in the mains supply. 

See our OVP 01 page for more  HERE:  

Schaudt Elektroblocks are far more than just a Charger, they are sophisticated units, with multiple functions :

1. Routing all charging for Solar, Alternator or Mains/generator. The EBL has built in Alternator charging control, there is no separate Split Charge relay like on some vehicles, it is all built into the box.

2. Solar Power charging consolidation by displaying Solar charge, both the Voltage and Current, on the main display for both Habitation and Starter batteries

This isn't supported on all models and only available if the Schaudt compatible Solar Regulators are used, see our Solar Power pages for more info.

In addition to the Analogue and LED displays, some LCD display units, like the DT 201/EBL101 and DT 220/EBL 220, have a separate, 'page' to show Solar charge, like this below :  

In the photo above, the Solar 'page' (note little Solar/Sun symbol) shows 1.1amps is going into the Habitation battery and 0.7a to the Starter battery. If you press the Battery button a second time, the Voltage 'page' is displayed for both Starter and Habitation battery. 

The above display information is only available if the Solar install follows that recommended by Schaudt and the Motorhome manufacturer, see Here for more details.  

3. A power boost controller for the Alternator charge to the Leisure battery. Some of the Schaudt products, like the EBL 109, WA1215 range, etc. use Voltage Boost technology that boosts the Alternator output to compensate for lost voltage over a long cable run. 

An Elektroblock equipped Motorhome has heavier duty cables for the Alternator cabling, generally higher quality/core thickness than many other manufacturers Motorhomes, resulting in little loss of voltage. 

Along with the way the Elektroblock works, this helps an Elektroblock to recharge it's batteries on the move more quickly than many other manufacturers units/installs and why aftermarket Alternator Battery 2 Battery Booster units are not only less effective but should NOT be fitted unless the installer fully understands the Elektroblock and the implications.  

The Schaudt Elektroblock almost always charges the Habitation batteries at the fastest rate commensurate with long Battery Life. 

Adding a B2B with it's higher charge rate usually degrades the battery, resulting in lengthening charging times because of the degradation caused by the faster charging effect on the battery. 

A B2B 'fast' charging conventional batteries might have slightly faster charging times initially, but these will worsen as the batteries are used and degrade from the higher voltage. Ultimately the batteries may become so corroded internally from the forced charging, sometimes in less than a year, that the B2B charging times may actually be longer than the standard set-up. 

4. Starter battery charging when on mains EHU, with between 2 - 6 amps charging dependent on the EBL model. Therefore a "Battery Master" style device should not be fitted as the EBL already has this functionality built in. 

5. Power distribution with the required safety mechanisms. The fused outputs can supply power up to 90% of the fuse rating, as per most fuse protected devices.

Some Elektroblocks will cut all 12v power when the voltage falls below a preset level, usually around 11v, to allegedly prevent damage to the battery from complete discharge. But note that for long battery life most battery manufacturers recommend a discharge to no lower than 12.1v, otherwise Battery life is usually compromised. Even on specialised deep discharge batteries. 

Many of the charts you will find on the web are out of date, based on old high Antimony based technology. They also don't take account of the fact that different technology batteries have different voltage ranges. 

The Yuasa chart below shows how the battery State Of Charge varies across technologies. 

Sealed/VRLA (Gel, AGM and Powerframe) have a resting voltage closer to 13v, not the 12.5v/12.6v that many out of date charts depict, so also have a correspondingly higher fully discharged voltage :




6. Most Elektroblocks control the refrigerator operation, even offering the ability to run an AES Fridge directly from the Leisure battery for short intervals without the Engine running. While this functionality is offered by the EBL, some Motorhome constructors don't always use it.

There is no external fridge relay, all controlled within the EBL. 

7. Frost protection. On some models a Truma frost protection valve will open to drain the Water Heater below preset temperatures, usually around 3 degrees above freezing, not the minus temperatures many expect.

8. An inbuilt Power Supply/Charger that provides much of the 12v demand in addition to charging the battery. Early EBL units had a 16amp charger later models had 18A.

Note that the EBL 119 that replaced the EBL 99, has a much more effective charger, getting bigger battery banks up to full charge in hours, not weeks. See How a Charger Works for a more detailed explanation. 

9. The ability to integrate additional mains Charger units (two on the EBL 220) to cope with multiple batteries that go above a Schaudt Eletktroblocks 180Ah battery bank limit. 

Because the EBL charges both Habitation and Starter Batteries, you should also make an allowance for the Starter battery capacity when calculating the bank size. 

One of the new Schaudt EBL 107 18amp charger documents states :

"The leisure battery may be damaged beyond repair if totally discharged. So therefore Fully charge the leisure battery before and after a shutdown (connect the vehicle to the mains for at least 12 hours and 24 hours for an 80Ah and 160Ah battery respectively)".

To us, that suggests that Schaudt consider the limit of the 18a charger is a 160Ah habitation battery, presumably making a 20Ah allowance for the Starter battery?

On an EBL 220 up to 6amps can be sent to the Starter battery, one third the total charger output and a significant amount. The second and third Auxiliary charger (giving 54 amps total mains charging capability) on this EBL puts it's 12v output directly into the EBL and the charge is distributed evenly to the batteries as required with the Control Panel showing the extra charge. 

The latest generation of AGM optimised chargers have longer main charge (14.3v) timer intervals, allowing a Gel/Lead Acid battery to be charged more quickly if multiple batteries are added. 

For example the new EBL 119 replacement for the old EBL 99 has a timer interval on the Gel/Lead setting which is 4 times longer than the old EBL 99, giving much faster, more complete charging. 

See our webpage "How does a Charger Work" for more info on 'Timers' and charger efficiency :


10. The EBL 99k built from around 2013 onwards has greater inbuilt protection for various circuits in the form of electronic fuses. In the event of a short circuit, the EBL may require 'resetting' to reactivate the fuse. This is done by turning the unit off for 30 seconds, then back on. This applies to some other late model EBL units as well. 

Pre 2013 EBL units do not respond to a 'reset', turning these off and on sometimes results in the unit not powering back on. 

We recommended that you never use the On/Ein, Off/Aus switch on the front of an EBL unless it is one of the later 'Slide switches' used from from about 2013 on. 

The switch does not isolate the EBL from the battery as the manuals usually state.

Solar Power.

The Solar charge regulator should pass it's charge output into the Elektroblock's pre-configured Solar ports (one for the charge power and one for the data output from the Schaudt Solar regulator) so that the EBL can distribute all Battery charge current and show the values on the Control panel. This isn't always essential on units like the EBL99, but the charge rate will then show on the Control Displays if you do. 

You may impact the warranty if you don't fit the Hymer/Schaudt recommended device, particularly if the wiring is changed or cut for the installation of a Battery Master, which will in any case short circuit the EBL's functionality? 

See HERE (section 3) for more information on why a Battery Master style device, like the Vanbitz, CBE, Sterling, etc,  compromises the EBL and is also the least efficient method of keeping the Starter battery topped up when installing Solar. 

The EBL 101, 226, 220, etc should have the recommended Schaudt Solar regulator fitted, or the compatible Votronic MPP xxx Solar controllers. Both the Solar Regulator 'power/charge' cable and the Solar reg 'Data' cable should plug directly into the EBL. This is because these EBL's are designed to handle ALL power being drawn from, and all charge into, the Habitation Area batteries. 

By being the sole controller of the battery power the EBL can calculate how long the battery will last and show a display on how many Amp Hours (Ah) remain. 

If any device is either putting power into/drawing it out of the battery directly, without going through the EBL, the calculations will be incorrect. In severe circumstances, such as the battery voltage rising when the EBL expects it to be dropping, or vice versa, the electronics can believe there is a fault and shut down.

You can see on the picture below, over towards the lower left, a 3 pin Solar Regulator charge socket which is used to Solar Charge both the Habitation and Starter batteries. Additionally over towards the upper right hand side is BL9, a mini 4 pin Data Socket that the Schaudt/Votronic regulator uses to pass the amps/volts data to allow the EBL 220 to calculate the charging rate from the Solar Panel and for the DT220 LCD display.

The Schaudt regulators come complete with all cables, connectors, instructions, fuses, etc to make the installation far easier than via any other method. It takes 10 minutes to cable up a Schaudt regulator to an EBL. We have seen Installers invoicing hours for the time taken to hard wire a generic Solar regulator, like a Stecca, to a Hymer's Habitation and Starter batteries. 

The Schaudt LR regulators might be more expensive to buy initially, but will save money overall by costing a lot less to install, as the cables are all supplied and pre made. This also reduces the risk of the installer causing expensive damage which is sometimes created when they try and wire in the Solar charge to the Starter battery. 

We very rarely see a Motorhome manufacturer recommended Solar Install, even when done by Dealers, although this situation improved a lot in 2018. 

This is a LRM 1218 with the cable kit that comes with it :

Note that we also recommend the Schaudt compatible Votronic Solar Regulator, see the Solar Power page for more.  



If you connect your Motorhome to mains supply a few days before you leave for your holiday you will reduce the chance of Starter battery issues as well as ensuring you have full leisure batteries. You don't need to activate the control display panel, i.e. switch it on. The charging will still take place even with the panel 'off'. 

This operation is quite different to the Sargent EC range (like EC500) which requires you leave the Power Distribution unit 'powered on' for it to manage the charging via it's 'Smart' feature. 

As a result there can be some misinformation around this as some people used to the Sargent systems will tell a Hymer owner that the EBL must be left on when this is not necessary and vice versa.

How to look after your EBL:-

1. Don't continue to use a battery that is past it's best. Almost all the failures we see are down to poor batteries, see our separate page, 'Battery Technology' on how to save money on the best batteries which have been as low as £95 each. 
2. Don't cover it with a Duvet, keep the EBL cool.
3. Do disconnect it from the mains/battery before switching the device from Gel to a Wet battery setting: See the separate Battery Technology page for information on the suitability of Gel batteries in Motorhomes/Caravans.
4. Don't run the 'Mains' supply from an unsmoothed generator supply: Use only Generators with a PURE Sine Wave output or that use Inverter technology. NEVER use a Generator that is not suitable for sensitive Electronics.
5. NEVER run without a battery connected, some Caravan/Motorhome Power Supplies can work in this way, but the strain is significant.
6. Never Isolate the Starter Battery, by removing a battery lead etc, if the Alternator is spinning.
7. Do make sure the mains hook-up is unplugged when you do any battery maintenance, like attach/detach the battery cables.
8. Do play safe during electrical storms. If you are in the vicinity of an electric storm, particularly abroad, cut the mains supply to the Motorhome/caravan by pulling the Mains hook-up lead until the storm passes. Lightning can hit overhead power cables which may lead to higher than normal voltages in the immediate vicinity.
9. When towing a Caravan don't connect the Car to the Trailer tow hitch while the Car engine Ignition is 'on' making the 12n/12s charging circuits live and prone to shorts/reverse polarity issues.



Removing or Installing a Schaudt Elektroblock EBL :

Do not pull any plugs out of the EBL until you first:-

Disconnect the mains EHU supply and in a Motorhome switch off the ignition.

Photograph or record which fuses are in which slots on the front, a replacement EBL comes from the factory with only minimal fuses, sometimes none.

If one is connected, disconnect the Solar panel from the regulator. Do not leave the regulator connected to the solar panel as the next step of removing the Battery leads may damage the regulator and put a spike into the Habitation electrics. The Schaudt LR 1218 documentation states in section 5, 

"Malfunction of or damage to connected consumers :

1. Do not operate the solar charge regulator without a battery.

2. Disconnect the connector ”Plus Solar module" on the solar charge regulator before changing or removing the battery".

So isolate the Solar Panel from the Regulator, not the regulator from the Battery.  

If you have an electric step, retract it now as once you have disconnected the EBL it may be stuck out.

Manually hold closed the frost protection valve (a Clothes peg or R clip does a good job) as disconnecting 12v power may drain the water heater tank.

Switch off 12v at the Control Panel display, usually above the door.

On an EBL 220 and other later models you may need to 'isolate the battery' on the control panel, if you do not do this there is a chance the EBL will not power up after installation. Our honarary Schaudt expert Peter Brown volunteers : 

"In paragraph 5.2 (Changing the battery) of my copy of the Electroblock EBL 220-2 manual it says: 

"Disconnect the battery from the Electroblock by activating the battery isolation on the DT/LT ... control and switch panel". 

"On the LT510 panel this isolation is achieved by pressing the living area battery button in for 10 seconds".


Other control panels have other ways of doing it so check the manual.


Remove the leads from the Habitation, and in a Motorhome, the starter batteries. Sometimes it is hard to gain access to both leads, so just removing one (the -) is usually ok. 

The battery cables colours are often the reverse of the UK, like BROWN can be a Negative/Earth, so label the + Battery lead (often Blue or Black) with Red tape and the negative Battery Lead (often Brown) with Black Tape to aid in getting it right on the re-install. 

Remove the 2amp fuse and 50amp fuse from their holders in the area of the habitation battery. Do the same under the bonnet (or Cab floor) for the similar 2a and 50a and additionally the 20amp near the Starter battery.

Double check EHU is not connected and remove the plugs from the front of the EBL starting with the Mains 'Kettle' lead. 

On units like the EBL 208 and 225, each Lucar Spade connector should be labelled and insulated as they are removed. Also take lots of photos. 

The Control panel connectors with the very thin wires are easily broken, take great care and do not pull on the wires, you must pull only on the connector itself and some are difficult to grip. A Gentle slight 'rocking' motion usually works well. 


Read this next paragraph in it's entirety before undoing these connectors. Clearly label the 3 primary connections at the BACK of the Elektroblock, on relevant models like the EBL 99 and 100. Failure to disconnect all the batteries earlier will leave some of these wires in a 'live' state. Take great care not to short them, touch them against each other or to the rear metal panel. Insulate each one well. We suggest you wrap insulating tape around the screwdriver blade (Flat blade not Pozidrive) to ensure it doesn't contact the metal backplate of the EBL unit when undoing the three screws. 

Undo them in this order : Wohnr/Leisure battery/(usually a Black lead), then the centre lead Minus/(usually twin Brown leads),  then the Starter/(usually Red lead). The screws should be very hard to undo, you will require a quality stout flat blade screwdriver.  

Once the plugs and wires are disconnected there are normally only 4 screws holding the EBL to the floor/wall.

Please pack it carefully, there are delicate components inside the unit. We sugget at least 3 inches/75mm of soft packaging around the unit, to absorb any shock, with a strong cardboard box over that. We can not repair physical damage only Electronic.

Please help us keep the above section accurate by emailing any anomalies that you find when removing your particular Elektroblock unit.

Standard Royal mail 48 hour which costs £13 is trackable and usually arrives in 2 days. 

Reinstalling an Elektroblock EBL :

Repopulate the fuses in the Elektroblock EBL front panel as per your photograph, etc. Elektroblock units arrive from the factory with the minimum of fuses. Putting in the Fuses now is often much easier at this stage.

Do not put any plugs or connectors into the EBL until you first:-

Disconnect the mains supply and in a Motorhome switch off the ignition.

If one is connected, disconnect the Solar panel from the regulator. Do not leave the regulator connected to the solar panel as the next step of removing the Battery leads may damage the regulator. Please be extra carefull about reconnecting the battery the correct way around, the German builders often use Brown for Neutral and Blue or Black for Live.

Remove the leads from the Habitation, and in a Motorhome, the Starter batteries. Sometimes it is hard to gain access to both leads, so just removing one (the -) is usually ok.

Double check that no plugs are inserted at the front of the box then connect the three/four fat wires at the back of the EBL IN THE ORDER they were removed above -

RED (ROT) to it's connector. Brown (Braun) to it's connector, Black (Swarz) to it's connector. Note that some Motor home builders use coloured cable that is different to that suggested by Schaudt.   

If the battery leads have not been disconnected take great care not to touch the leads to each other or to the Aluminium back panel. 

If any of these leads do touch or short you are likely to damage the EBL. Check the big fuses (between 30 - 50 amp) usually located around the Starter and Leisure batteries.

Plug in the MNL multiple plugs into their sockets, then the control panel connectors (with the thin wires) but do not plug in the Mains Kettle lead yet.

Reconnect the battery leads TAKING GREAT CARE to put them on the right way around, positive to positive, etc. Ignore the cable colours, go by the symbols on the battery clamps themselves. 

Replace the 2amp fuse and 50amp fuse from their holders in the area of the habitation battery. Do the same under the bonnet (or Cab floor) for the similar 2a and 50s and additionally the 20amp near the Starter battery. If you get the 2a and 20amp mixed up, the 2a goes in the holder with the thinner Yellow cables. 

Turn on the EBL by pressing the switch in at the top to EIN. Some EBL units like the EBL 109, 208, etc do not have ON/OFF EIN/AUS switch.

If the Control Panel won't turn on double check all leads/connections/fuses. If it is a later EBL, like the EBL 220 try activating the battery isolation on the DT/LT ... control and switch panel, see removal instructions.

If the battery leads touched on the wrong terminal for even a fraction of a second, the EBL control electronics will suffer reverse Polarity failure and will need repair. 

If all is ok, Plug in the mains 240v EHU into the side of the Motorhome.

Then plug in the EBL mains kettle lead. The EBL should 'click' when the lead is inserted on most but not all units. 

If it clicks continually the charger current is not able to leave the EBL and the clicking is the safety relay shutting it down. Pull the kettle lead and the clicking should stop. Replace any blown fuses in the front of the EBL and around both the Starter and Leisure batteries and replace the kettle lead,  you should now hear a single click. If the Control Panel won't turn on double check all leads/connections. 

Any problems, email us.

Test all functionality, every light, every appliance, Running fridge from Alternator, Alternator charging, etc. Everything. 

Don't assume anything is working until you test it. You have disturbed wiring, connectors, Fuses, etc so things that previously worked might not now. Removing and replacing an EBL can have quite a traumatic effect on the connectors and wiring in some hands.

Always update the "Battery Nominal Capacity" (see instructions at the bottom of this page) after making any changes to a system with LCD screens like the DT201, DT220, etc or when an Elektroblock EBL is replaced, like a EBL 100, 101, 220, etc. 

Note that the settings/values of the old box may have been lost  giving confusing readings for the Digital display EBL units, like the EBL 101, EBL 220. So things like the Amp hour (Ah) values will need to be relearned by the EBL and this can take a few days to get back to normal. In some cases weeks.


To request posting and packing details use the email address at the bottom of the Home page or the form on the  Contact Us page.

This is NOT one we destroyed earlier. This EBL 99 is scrap, as we can't repair it as the entire Schaudt charger PCB has been removed, unlikely the factory will either, as there is no longer a charger PCB inside the unit to repair :

Because this unit has been modified, a big hole drilled in the side case plus internal modifications (in many instances the Schaudt Charger PCB's completely removed) many repairers will not entertain these.

So who will maintain it in the future if you do have something like this done?

This most likely cost around £90 for the 1990's designed Zig charger, plus an awful lot of time. In man hours and parts, most likely around £200 total?  Yet the Zig add-on charger struggles to deliver 10amps and only at 13.5v. It will take forever to charge up 2 decent Motorhome batteries.

It is so inferior to the factory original it is likely to lead to premature battery decline.

When a proper factory standard charger repair from us would cost only about £130 is i sensible to create a half working bodge that costs more?

This is the new faster charging EBL 119 to replace the now unavailable EBL 99, although we can still supply rebuilt EBL 99's, but not new EBL 99's :

Schaudt DT 201B.pdf Schaudt DT 201B.pdf
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Schaudt  DT 220 B Operation.pdf Schaudt DT 220 B Operation.pdf
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Schaudt  DT 220 C Operating Instruct.pdf Schaudt DT 220 C Operating Instruct.pdf
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Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 119.pdf Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 119.pdf
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